Price: $20.00 – $98.00
Iris Absolute (1% Irones)
Adam Michael has this to say “Iris is a deeply fascinating and very time consuming material to produce. The main producers today are located in China, France and Morocco and the species that count for the bulk of production are Iris.pallida, Iris.germanica and Iris.florentina. The Iris process starts with the rhizomes/roots that are known as orris roots. These are collected, washed, surface layer removed, cured and stored for as long as 4 years. The length of time the orris root is stored is largely responsible for the percentage of the prized constituents – irones, the aroma of irones are a lush green violet accord with excellent tenacity. Most material commercially offered will have a 1%, 8% and 15% content of irones.
For the extraction process to begin the rhizomes are taken out of storage, blitzed, resulting in material that resembles a starchy pulp. This is then steam distilled to produce essential oil and due to the chemistry containing mystric acid we find the material hardens up very quickly – resembling a waxy concrete and this is the reason so many people refer to the essential oil as iris butter.The process to produce iris absolute is even more interesting because our starting material is actually the iris butter/essential oil. This material is alcohol washed to remove the mystric acid and the oil left is vacuum distilled to provide us with the absolute. Iris absolute with a 80% irones content and upwards is still produced but comes with a big price tag of in excess of £50’000 per kilo.
This iris absolute contains 1% irones and really is a very beautiful material, the aroma is slightly sweet, earthy, green, floral and violets aplenty. In perfumery this material is a must for building floral, orris floral and fruity accords, blends very well with rose materials, pear liquid, raspberry leaf and fruity aldehydes, and injects floral love and sweet violet warmth into oriental bases.”
Botanical Name: Iris pallida